How you will mount it
A standard ATV cargo rack is the designed fit. Work out in advance whether yours takes a hard bolt-down or needs U-bolts through the elevator's base frame, in three to four places.
Bolt-down or U-bolts
Home / DIY Fitting
DIY — fit the P‑TAS
to your own ATV
The P‑TAS is designed to fit a standard ATV cargo rack. Fitting it to anything else is a DIY job, done by the owner of the product. Here is exactly what that means, and the seven stages the build runs through.
01 The short version
All the parts will be there. The mounting points you put on yourself.
That is the whole deal, and we would rather you knew it now than after the crate turns up.
The P‑TAS ships complete. Base frame, stainless steel plated rails, linear bearings, alloy plate, sliding carriage, swivel ball head, quick-release receiver, the padded front rifle clamp, the Kolpin Rhino Grip Pro stock rest, the 12-volt powered electric elevator, the loom, the two push-button switches and the two 6-inch marine-grade suction mounts. Every part of the product is in the box.
What is not in the box is a set of mounting points pre-drilled for your exact machine. There are too many racks, in too many shapes, on too many bikes, for that to be honest. Those points you put on yourself, positioned where they suit your rack.
If your machine has a standard ATV cargo rack, that is a straightforward bolt-up. If it does not, it is a DIY fit — still very doable, but it is your work and your measurements.
Two things to know before you start: the wiring has to be connected by you, buttons to the elevator and loom to the battery; and the rig becomes right- or left-handed while you are building it, not afterwards. The seven build stages are below.
02 The split
What we supply, and what you supply
Nothing hidden. This is the line between the two.
| Base frame | Powder-coated high-tensile steel |
|---|---|
| Rails | Twin stainless steel plated — 1000 mm and 800 mm |
| Bearings | Two double-width rollers (Mark 2) — not four |
| Alloy plate & carriage | Plate sits above the scissor lift, carriage above that |
| Elevator | 12-volt motorised scissor lift and linear actuator |
| Control | Loom plus two self-centering push-button switches |
| Head | Swivel ball head with quick-release receiver |
| Clamps | Padded front rifle clamp, plus the Kolpin Rhino Grip Pro lockable butt-stock rest |
| Accessory | Two 6-inch marine-grade suction mounts |
| Hardware | Countersunk screws, self-tapper bolts, end stop caps |
| Handedness | Chosen at build stage 03 — right or left |
|---|---|
| Mounting points | Set and fitted to suit your own rack |
| Rack fixings | Hard bolt-down or U-bolts, in 3–4 places |
| Measurement | Rack width, tube size and clear deck length |
| Tools | Spanners, drill and bits, measure, marker, thread lock |
| Wiring | Buttons to the elevator, loom to the battery |
| Power tap | A 12V feed off the vehicle, fused |
| Switch run | Routing the switch lead up to the handlebars |
| Chassis work | None — U-bolt holes go in the elevator's own base frame |
| Clearance check | Full deployment and full retraction, nothing fouling |
| Final torque | Check and re-check after the first few rides |
To be plain about the one thing people ask: no cutting or drilling of the chassis is required or intended. Drilling, where it is needed at all, is into your rack or your own mounting plate — never the frame of the machine.
03 The build
How it goes together
Seven stages, in order. Read stage 03 before you pick up a screwdriver — that is where the rig becomes right- or left-handed.
01
Elevator and controls
The platform elevator lift arrives together with the up/down handlebar-mounted control buttons.
Wiring needs to be connected
The buttons wire to the elevator, and the loom then has to be connected to the battery or your power source. Nothing moves until that is done.
02
Rollers onto the alloy plate
Fix the rollers to the square alloy plate using the supplied countersunk screws.
Only two rollers are needed. The Mark 2 prototype runs two wider, double-width bearings in place of the four the Mark 1 used — one on each corner. If you have seen the earlier four-corner arrangement, this supersedes it.
03
Rails on — and this is where you choose your hand
The two linear line rails, 1000 mm and 800 mm, line up perfectly on the alloy base platform. This is the stage where you decide whether the rig is set up for a right-handed or a left-handed shooter.
- The 1000 mm rail always sits closest to the shooter and the handlebars, whichever hand you set up for.
- The alloy plate has a tapered end. Taper on the right is the right-handed setup.
- For a left-hander, flip the alloy plate upside down so the tapered end is now on the left.
- Either way the 1000 mm rail leaves a 200 mm overhang — on the left or on the right depending on the setup — for accessories to attach to.
04
Kolpin stock rest on your side
Mount the Kolpin butt/stock rest on the side that matches the hand you set up in stage 03: right side for a right-handed shooter, left side for a left-handed shooter.
05
Mount the ball head, slide it on, then cap the ends
This is where you mount the swivel ball head on the alloy plate. The double roller bearings are already attached to that plate, so with the ball head fitted the whole plate now slides straight onto the two rails. Run it through and check the slide is smooth and the operation is clean.
Then cap the ends of the rails with the end stop caps, tightened hard and firm.
End stop caps go on one side only
The Kolpin stock holder you fitted in stage 04 sits on the other side and stops the rollers going any further — the Kolpin becomes the stopper at that end of the P‑TAS rails.
06
Mount the elevator, then the platform on top
Prepare the area and mark out where the elevator will sit on your front rack or rail. Then decide how it fastens down:
- a hard bolt-down straight to the rack, or
- U-bolts — which means drilling the base frame of the elevator and bringing the U-bolts up through those holes, clamping the rail of the quad between them.
Either way, fasten it in at least three to four places. You are after no movement at all.
With that solid, the alloy plate — rails, sliders and Kolpin clamp all in their set-up position — bolts to the top of the elevator using the supplied self-tapper style bolts. Any hole along the line of bolts that holds the rail to the alloy plate can be used, as long as it lines up with the elevator: two on the front side of the 800 mm rail, and two on the handlebar side of the 1000 mm rail. Space them as far apart along the rail as you can — that is what makes the mount stable and firm.
The sliding alloy platform clears those bolts, so the glide is not hindered at all.
07
Test the lift, then load the rifle
Check the electric up/down button operation through full deployment and full retraction before a rifle goes anywhere near it.
Then fit your preferred mounting on the ball mount — the Picatinny rail, the Arca rail, or the padded rifle clamp. Lock the front end of the rifle into the ball mount and stow the stock/butt into the Kolpin gun clamp.
Always strap the stock down
Run the tie-down rubber strap over the stock once it is in position. That is what stops the rifle slipping out and being damaged — it keeps everyone safe during a chase, or simply transporting the rifle back to camp.
04 Not a quad
Roof and bonnet mounting
The P‑TAS is primarily bolted to a bike, but it is not limited to a quad.
Every unit ships with two 6-inch marine-grade suction mounts. They attach into the slots, and that is what makes the P‑TAS capable of mounting on top of a vehicle roof to shoot from, or on a bonnet for target practice and zeroing a rifle scope — a ute, a wagon, a side-by-side with a hard top — without a permanent fit.
The same rule applies as everywhere else on this page: the mounts are supplied, and where they go is your call. Check the surface is clean, flat and solid enough to carry the unit plus the rifle under recoil before you rely on it, and never leave it suction-mounted for highway transit.
Order the P‑TAS
05 Before you order
Three things worth being sure of
What your rack will carry
The scissor lift is rated to 80 kg, but your rack has its own rating. Check the vehicle's figure and work to the lower of the two.
80 kg on the lift
Where the wiring runs
The wiring is connected by you. Two self-centering push buttons need a home on the bars within thumb reach, and the loom needs a fused 12 volt feed off the battery. Work out that run in advance.
You connect the wiring
Anything you are not sure about, send it through before you order.
Everything in the crate.
The fit is yours.
$1,800 AUD, GST included, freight calculated at checkout. Expected delivery by 31 January 2027.